Monday, October 26, 2009

DAY 25, Pizza Month 2009; L'asso (SoHo)

DAY 25: OCTOBER 25th, 2009

L'asso (192 Mott Street, NYC)

3 slices of a large Margherita DOC, 1 slice of Soppressata, 1 bite of a Puta Di Mare

Will Hines, Tabitha Lee, Robin Rothman


Another reason to be lassoed into Little Italy. L'asso offers Naples style pizza in a cozy-borderline-romantic setting.

Ranging in sizes from 12" round (small) to 29" oblong (large), these wood-fired excellently prepared pies don't last long. L'asso is also one of the few locations to offer the Margherita D.O.P. The acronym is short for Denominazione di origine controllata which, when translated means authentically Italian. When applied to pizza, it not only refers to the style of the pie but the ingredients and the manner in which it is prepared. Without even looking into the kitchen I know the tomatoes were San Marzano, the cheese is fresh mozzarella, the crust is hand-crafted and cooked in a wood-fired brick oven and, oh, there will be basil. The one variable that concerned me was, would I like it.

It took me all of one bite to shake that worry. L'asso's Margherita D.O.P. is absolutely delicous. Loaded with tomato sauce, sprinkled with olive oil, and baked to perfection, this 29" football shaped masterpiece didn't last long. This is the reason to come back.

The Soppressata also had its merits. A fan of meats, but still new to Italian dry-cured salami, I must admit the flavors of the onions, meat, and sharp cheeses overwhelmed the sauce and mozzarella that I love so much. Considering I eat pizza everyday, I do welcome a change. And L'asso offers plenty of gourmet alternatives. Anything from the Puta Di Mare which features shrimp and broccoli rabe to a gluten free pie. I haven't tried that yet. Maybe another date night...since, of course, I will be back.


1. Will, Tabitha, Robin and I went on a double date here. Afterward we went to Ferrara's for dessert. We were the last to leave.
2. Bring reading glasses if you're farsighted like me.



  • VALUE:


  • TASTE:


17/21= 0.809 x 5 = 4.04

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